Wallfish

I have one of those type also. As usual they were branded under many different names

David made a head tool a while back so maybe he can post some pics. You can weld a couple of beads or tabs on the side of a spark plug socket. A strap wrench around the head will work but be careful not to crush the cooling fins. Cutting and grinding a piece of 1/4" flat bar will also work. I missed the post office Saturday so I'll put the engine and parts in a priority mail box with a prepaid label and leave it for the mailman. I have a hard time getting there while it's open.

David may have something for specs but I turn them down tight and then line up the little tabs on the top of the head so two are parallel with the crank. This can be a pain sometimes as they can get pretty tight before the tabs line up but if the tabs don't line up, the blower housing will hit the tab and prevent it from seating all the way on. Making a tool to fit in the slots at the plug hole works well to keep from damaging the cooling fins of the head. The engine I'm sending will have a loose head since I didn't tighten it back down because you probably want to go through it. Think I can get to the post office today to ship it. It will come with NOS rings and some gaskets

That's the fuel side so it needs to not dissolve in gasoline

Is that something you have plans for or looking to sell? I'm interested in a basket case. Kind of my specialty it seems

Try soaking the seals and orings in carb cleaner for a few hours. It causes them to swell and softens them a bit too. I used to do that before I had a stash of nos parts to use and it seemed to work well to get everything sealed. I just don't know for how long it lasts. Using a tube of Lubriplate 105 engine assembly grease is probably a good idea too. Might as well go through everything, clean allthe pieces and especially the bearings and grease during assembly.

Nice. The exhaust manifold starts to discolor from the heat when they are run for long periods of time and that one is still nice and clean. Leave the little air vent on the gas cap open when storing it if the location you keep it has large temperature swings. Had one crack the tank when the cold at night created vacuum pressure inside of it and the tank buckled in a little, It was enough to crack the seam.

I do have a vertical tank if you need one but if rust on the inside of yours is the only problem, try the cider vinegar soak and let me know if you still need it. Saving as many as possible will only help all of us collectors in the future. We can swap tanks and I'll try to clean it too.

If it doesn't have a hole rusted through, soak cider vinegar in it. you can fill it with small nuts or bolts and shake it to loosen the big stuff off first.Just check it everyday. It cleans rust really well in these tanks. I once forgot about a tank soaking and when I saw it again about a month or 2 later, the acid in the vinegar had eaten away most of the tank. If the outside is rusted too just soak the whole thing. Rinse well when done.

Got all ambitious and dug through some old stuff and found this. Between the one you have and this you should have enough to get going again. Compression feels good but it probably has the old type plastic cage bearings, but when or if this one fails we'll fix you up again so there's nothing to loose. I'll remove the the generator section unless you need it. One thing for sure, the parts will fit. PM me your address Charlie and I'll send it to you. No charge because I have no idea of the full quality of the parts inside. BUT you have to post some pics and tell us how you made out. Type 111 SN 034701

Oooo, the term "very interested" means expensive for you. Wooo Hooo. You being the only resource back in the day is what got all of this started. Highly doubt I would've ever went past those first 2 engines if we never connected. I didn't know squat back then so your help and knowledge with the stuff was crucial in my collecting of O&R. Glad we started this because there really isn't any other place for people to go that I know of. Then people like David get involved and the knowledge base has grown to new heights because of his involvement and willingness share information. In a couple of years CNew will be coaching and suppling parts too at the pace he's going.

I'll find you the right parts to fix it. I might have the whole kit and kabootle. Have the holiday day off tomorrow.

I'll find you some gaskets if you let me know what you need. The majority of gaskets can be reused if they weren't ruined when taking it apart

Do you need a vertical tank for a toolor just to have one in case you do?

I've got what you want. A used piston with wrist pin, slotted rod, and bearings plus new #A-20-5-13-7 con-rod bearing set, includes #7-22 washers (must be used with slotted con-rod) Think I can find a set of rings and a used head with a 10mm plug hole. you'll probably need some gaskets like the thin induction paper gasket

I'm guessing they end up in Utopia along with the missing socks from the dryer. Lots of free stuff goes there! Lol

Only problem with that is, now you have some hack taking it apart with a butter knife and a big crescent wrench. Good luck on getting any of the hardware with it! Or maybe they'll store it down in the carb Asking politely for extra attention in packaging usually helps. I typically offer extra $ for it but hardly ever will they charge you. At least that's my experience but haven't been having stuff shipped in like I used to.

Tell me about it. That sucks and it's even worse when it's the tool parts damaged which are much more difficult to replace or fix. That's exactly why items I pack in a box are packed well and protected. Can't count how many shipping damaged items I received because of bad lazy packaging.

@Webhead Joe did a bunch of restorations so I bet he has already done the leg work for finding the close match colors. I had a Cub Cadet yellow that closely matched the Orline stuff but don't remember the exact color it was

Usedtoolman Jim is a machinist and he did exactly that with using a template he made to match the original caps. I like the cap idea Joe posted too. Kind of funny how the picture they use to sell them looks like the bottom of it was cut off with a clam shell.

@usedtoolman did a write up a while back on some he did using the tool handle dip stuff. They came out really nice and resembled the originals pretty closely. Stuff like this in black https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dip-and-Grip-Rubberized-Plastic-Coating-8-fl-oz/114063539?sourceid=csebr0339853b01ce1b488d883413eb59d01d2f&wmlspartner=bizratecom&affcmpid=3179675693&tmode=0000&veh=cse&szredirectid=15740028324123095426410070301008005

I remember seeing a frame for that Pigmy Power Plant before. Probably back on the old forum

It was on there at a fair price and thought about it but just don't have the time for another generator. The listing did not have a pic of the output side when I saw it. There were quite a bit a small companies back then so not so sure it's homemade. But there are also quite a bunch of really skilled people out there too.

Well, it only takes about 9 or 10 months to do something which used to get done in a day or two. Finally got around to and made some time to assemble this cutoff saw. It's not 100% done as I need to make a grommet for the carb intake to match up with the hole for the air cleaner and I'll install a new carb while I'm at it. Still need to order a new blade too and do some clean up on it. Used to be able to go through these quickly but didn't look for the specialty tools I made for easier access to the tough to reach bolts an such. Luckily the recoil went fast and got that the first try.

How many did you get the first time? If you get a bunch, offer them up for sale as I don't much time.