Wallfish

Nice job with that Paul. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. How does the compressor mount to the base? Or does it just hold on by the shaft? A compressor is still on my bucket list

Na, they're still catching up unless one of them has about 50. BUT, they sure do find some stuff and it's slim pick'n over there compared to here. ( SO, maybe on that curve these guys are closer than I think). One thing for sure, it's guys like this which keep the hobby of collecting these little items alive and well.

If Webhead doesn't have the parts you need, I may have some. I have some used crank shafts and parts from a damaged tiny tiger generator. Are you thinking you need the magnet part that spins inside the copper coils of the generator? O&R engines come in many colors and green military is an original factory color. Still always best to post pictures of what you have so we can better help. You can use a photo host like "photobucket" which is free and then copy and paste the img link and the photos will show on here. Or you can become a supporter for $10 and posting pics is easy as drag and drop them into your post.

Well that's another different item I've never seen before but the engine is familiar. Thanks for posting pics! As a newer model engine, the little arm in the carb may have a rubber check valve instead of the most common steel ball bearing (which sat in the little hole to serve the same purpose). I have yet been able to come up with a good fix to replace that little rubber stopper when they dry out and don't seal. I fix them buy replacing the entire diaphragm assembly with the older steel ball version. You'll need to clean that entire carb but don't get any carb cleaner on the little rubber stopper if that's indeed what's there. After cleaning re-assemble and test it by blowing air into the fuel inlet. Air should only pass when the primer button is pushed. Also a good idea to try and suck air too. This procedure works for both styles of check valve. If ANY air passes it must be fixed so the diaphragm can pump gas to the engine. Have you checked out this carb tutorial thread?

Some parts are available. Assume you will need a new diaphragm. Figure out what parts you need and send a Private Message to member webhead. He should be able to hook you up. I also have diaphragms. Please post some pictures of that machine. Not sure I've ever seen one of those but many O&R items are the same only branded under different names.

This was a thread on mine. Still never got around to painting it but it does look good without paint too.

Both are correct, I have the Chip-A-Saw version. Also have the other version of a Chip-A-Saw

Loved it! Thanks for sharing that.

I'm with C101. Pull it apart to check it out and fix it if easy enough. Nothing to loose if you are junking it anyway. Plus those small pistons and rods make a nice little key chain.

A wire must come from under the flywheel ( which is attached at the condenser connection ) to the points terminal. Only one wire needed to the points for spark. Disconnect the wire going to ground. A k91 has a button on the points cover to kill (ground) the engine but you can connect a second wire to the points to use as a kill. The kill switch must connect to ground which kills the spark.

Weight, weight, weight and then add some more weight to the rear. Filled tires and large heavy wheel weights will certainly help. The rear engine limits the options for weight box so you'll have to get creative if needed. To put in perspective, my loader tractor has a 500+ pound backhoe hanging off the back of it and still looses traction with a heavy load on the loader. That's a very interesting loader with the self level bucket setup. I really like that feature. It appears to be homemade to me by a very skilled builder but that's just a guess. Manufactured loader arms are usually tapered and not straight dimensional pieces. The bucket shape seems too simple of a design. Again, just guessing

Thanks for sharing. Never knew those different trimmers existed. My manual doesn't have any of those in it. Seems as though the Yard-Arm might be the "Holy Grail" of O&R collecting. So far only seen in printed manuals and brochures as far as I know.

Those tillers were branded under quite a few different names. Mine is a Derby. Never seen one of those power heads with a blower attachment What is that unit in the first pic?

This is also on my to do list. Did a bunch of web research on the subject and gathered most of the parts needed but just need to get started on it. The plan is to power a small tractor with a gasifier using wood pellets for the fuel.

Ha, no wonder I couldn't hit anything. Certainly doesn't appear they were shooting anything too powerful or there would be evidence of it. Besides it wouldn't last too long as soon as one of the kids took aim at those wooden rollers. This has my wheels turning since my grandson shoots his little .177 BB gun out in back of the house. He's always looking to make different targets but recently started shooting the wildlife and possibly the neighbors cat ( for more of a challenge I believe). Thinking to build something like this, which might keep him out of trouble for a little while. A squirrel once in a while is one thing but he was taking out every bird species too. Caught him taking aim at a Pileated woodpecker which is a pretty big bird and not too many around.

Now that is an interesting project! Thanks for sharing it and I'm also looking forward to seeing it finished.

Found this instruction to be interesting. HIGHLY doubt many people are going to remove and replace the belt guard every hour to grease that idler pulley. This could possibly explain why so many belt guards are missing.

I was kind of thinking that too but if the gas tank and mount are original, it's meant to operate horizontally. 2 & 3 pic look like the same idea with a vertical operating tank but the handle is 90 degrees off.

neons Please let us know when you find them! I'm interested in your parts, possibly the tools too but I do have most of those items in my collection. Just looked up your zip code and your not too far from me

Too bad that muffler is blown out. Those go for some big money. By the way, that tractor is a 1960 model 400

A knot will certainly keep it from pulling through but I never liked the big lump it creates in the rope winding. Kind of like it creates a cam and you can feel it when pulling the rope out. That's why I prefer to melt a smaller knob into the end of the rope. Without a doubt either way is fine, just a matter of preference.

Very Nice!!!!! Thanks for the update.

For some reason I clicked on this link which appeared in the cluster of videos after the one you linked ended. I was LMFAO so just thought I'd share it even though it has absolutely nothing to do with the content of this thread. Sorry for getting of topic!

HA, I'm an idiot! Just looked real quick at the pic before posting. Guess it's one of those mind bending illusions used to trick the simple minded, like me! Those bastards got me!

I'm not so convinced it doesn't give off ANY carbon monoxide fumes AT ALL. Especially since his detector went off at the end of the video. No way the "heat" as he explained, would reach the ceiling unless he ran thing for a loooooooong time and even then, that's a stretch. Very interesting concept so thanks for sharing. I'm going to check out some of the other videos and info concerning this. One question though, Could some or most of the gain in running time be contributed to a very lean running engine? That might explain the "heat" theory as a lean running air cooled engine will run hot under a lean condition.