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Early start this morning in thick fog, we arrived at the garden centre and set up the engine and made a coffee, ran the engine for a couple of hours sold a pair of wheels and had a look around and managed to. buy some kohler exhaust plpe connectors. We went into the cafe and had a nice fried breakfast ran the engine again untill 3pm, loaded up and came home. A nice little outing and chilled out. Heres a couple of photos

and on which side of the car should the steering wheel be? After reading the article I'm still confused http://www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/why-we-drive-on-the-right-or-wrong-side-of-the-road.html/?a=viewall

A bit more progress today now that my 1902 Drummond lathe is back up and running with a new chuck. A number of the original head studs that also hold on the fan mounting were missing so I made up a new set from 1/2" hex bar threaded UNF one end and BSF the other. had some fun oil bluing the finished items. Second job was brazing up all the cracks and rust holes in the engine cowling, I was not looking forward to this as it looked to be in a very poor state however after a bit of hammering, brazing and a dip in the acid bath it has come out quite well.I annealed the copper head gasket and we now have a complete engine.

Next time I bring Pam up Alan i'll bring some back-up

Fills a gap.

Strictly speaking, that is not correct . An extended nose plug may be either hot or cold as may be a plug where the insulator surrounding the centre electrode is more or less flush with the plug body. The determining factor that defines whether a plug is hot or cold is the length of the insulator in contact within the plug body. The more of the space taken up equates to greater ability to loose heat - a colder running plug; and the bigger the gap the lesser ability too loose heat - a hotter running plug. This may explain it better. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=spark+plug+heat+range&biw=1056&bih=517&tbm=isch&imgil=DLDOcbaAbYAYwM%253A%253ByX0f1R9azGsEmM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ngksparkplugs.com%25252Ftech_support%25252Fspark_plugs%25252Fp2.asp&source=iu&pf=m&fir=DLDOcbaAbYAYwM%253A%252CyX0f1R9azGsEmM%252C_&usg=__QcAYcQbjmU596N6UNUSx2RCfz6U%3D&ved=0CDgQyjdqFQoTCKLszsvu9MgCFQLQGgodE1wGQA&ei=T_o4VuKIL4Kga5O4mYAE#imgrc=DLDOcbaAbYAYwM%3A&usg=__QcAYcQbjmU596N6UNUSx2RCfz6U%3D On Edit, Found this which may be of help http://progreengrass.com/kohler-engine-spark-plug-application-chart/

Well... It's been a while since I've done a Why Not update and not much has been happening really.. Part of the kit I bought fried its self, so I made my own.. Ready to be bolted on.. Bolted in place under the fender pan.. There is plenty of space around the coils, it's just a badly taken photo that makes it look otherwise! And a bit of spark testing... I am getting a spark, just enough of a spark! Any ideas?

Thats off my mates John Deere 400 tractor 60 in monster cut. We got the rest of it Just got to get the engine to run on both cylinders before its worth rebuilding the deck

1975 and earlier hydro static transmissions for brands like Ariens, Allis, Homelite, Gilson, and Simplicity were Vickers T66 models like the ones below. After 1975 those brands switched to Sunstrand hydro static transmissions. Bolens used Eaton and later switched to Sunstrand, while Cub Cadet was Sunstrand all along. The cast iron Vickers Hydros were nearly 50 pounds heavier than the Sunstrand models.