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Cyclone spreader coming along... Not a concours job but it looks better than it did...

Now I know why you invited me over Chris!

Decided to get some parts together and rebuild this engine for a BeJay winch I recently bought. The engine was covered in grime and very stiff to turn over. Since it needed to be completely disassembled just to clean it, might as well do a complete rebuild and document with some pics Here's the winch The engine completely disassembled and parts cleaned Some of the NOS parts to be used. Cylinder, rings, connecting rod, complete seal/gasket kit, coil, flywheel, points, carb, ect.

Quite possibly. But somehow I don't think one would be enough.

So if I asked my beloved nicely to do a Banoffee Pie when we are in Yorkshire there may be some interest then...

Its all gone now

The new footrests look like they might be bolted onto the old ones.

I do know the enthusiast added the foot rests, i know nothing about the grill either.

I thought 3rd was best going straight Thats a good welcome to your place Jon. Skid marks in front of your house

These really do a great job cutting grass, there gear box deck with the solid rear stripping roller and heavy built deck is far superior to other smaller machines. Massey Ferguson never made a riding mower or any other piece of lawn and garden equipment, they subcontracted the building to outside manufacturers. This series of of Massey Ferguson outdoor power equipment was known as the MF line and ran from 1966-1976 and was produced by AMF at their plant in West Des Moines Iowa. The first Massey Ferguson L&G tractors were the Massey 7 and Massey 8 Executives, they were yellow and they were built by the Duro corp in 1964 and 1965. Massey also produced a small 8 hp garden tractor for export, actually built in Europe, called the Massey ELF, also yellow, it was based on a small Gutbrod tractor. After the MF line had run its course a new line appeared, this group was built by McDonough Power equipment who built Snapper riding mowers, this line which features 8 to 18 hp lawn and garden tractors maybe some of the rarest as they were only produced for a few years, from 1977-1980.

Here is a advert from 1973 found online that has two O&R powered Lancaster chainsaws, the 20SLA Automatic that Lee has and the 15SLA Mini Automatic that I have. Also attached are some pictures of my smaller Lancaster 15SLA Mini Automatic with the 13B engine. The air filter is different to the standard ones fitted to O&R's, also the instructions aren't quite right as the chain oiler is automatic. David

The O&R part no. for the rings used on the Model 20A engine is 200023. Don't forget to clean out the remains of the air filter, as they disintegrate just as well as the earlier engines. David

Unfortunately I don't have much experience with those engines and only own one, which I have never taken apart. I'll search through my documentation to try and find a size but may only find a part #. I would suggest you send a PM to member Webhead.(Joe Weber) He's not as active on here as he used to be but he might have the rings.You can also contact him through eBay as he has quite a few items up for sale now under Ohlsson Rice. His name on there is amcweb

Oh! Thanks for the balloon test info. Something else I found that I can warn about, is that when I removed the induction section to check the crankshaft seal, I had to make a new gasket for the induction section. It was marginally thicker than the original. Whether from the increased thickness, or lack of resilience of the old O-ring, I needed to add TWO layers of the same gasket material between the o-ring and the induction hole, to seal around the bolt.

One of the first things that I do before putting an O&R engine back together after dismantling for cleaning and rebuilding, is to give it a leak down test to see if the seals are good and other areas of possible leakage. First, I leave the carb off. Install the spark plug and tighten. Make sure that the points push rod is in place, preferably with a little o ring lube. I then stretch a balloon over the exhaust, past the rivet on the neck. I found a plastic braided hose, about 4" long, that fits snug in to the carb inlet. I then blow in to the hose until the balloon is pretty full, remove my mouth and put my thumb over the hose inlet. Good seals allow the balloon to deflate at a very slow rate. A decent sized leak can actually be heard, hissing out of the bad seal on the flywheel side or the pto side. Other leaks can be at the spark plug or the push rod o ring. I had one that had hairline cracks in the crankcase and took multiple times to find. It appeared to be an engine that had never been ran and was bad from the factory casting.

The canoe, loaded. In choppy water twisting to mount a heavy outboard is delicate. Seldom have a portage/launch point that allows mounting the motor on dry land.

Yes, the exhaust position puzzles me as well. The newer three blade is that hole in front of the prop. The older one has holes in the sides of the exhaust pipe.

Courtesy of Usedtoolman

Courtesy of Webhead