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Wood run to Norfolk today for some supplies for the new shed Plenty of wood here to play with lol Thanks to Iain and Joseph (and Caroline for feeding us both) !

After discarding the chain drive the top sprocket was drilled and tapped 4 BA and an alloy bar bolted to it. This bar was drilled with extra holes for the push / pull rods so that various positions could be tried. The same was done with the bottom sprocket. The threaded rods are M6. These will be changed to round bar later and a better top bar made. All a temporary try out for now. Although this arrangement was better than the chain, there was still a lot of free play. A lot of this was from the various universal joints and male / female connections between the bottom sprocket and the front wheels. Better fitting U/J centers were made and various Male F/M joints drilled and tapped for grub screws which tightened things up but still not enough. The gap between the pin and it's through hole can be seen below. The cavity for the small coil spring didn't help either as a lot of the bearing surface was lost. This was not used in the replacement centers. Probably cheap U/J's found at my usual parts supply location.

Nothing would touch the carbon other than the rotary tool with a steel wheel and wd40 after a screwdriver scrape (I was very careful with both). Lots of dings in the head so figured I can't make it any worse. The piston going to look like the surface of the moon I bet. Think I'm done on this now after 1 more sheet for good measure tomorrow

Last year on my annual trip down south, one of the things I returned with was this Billy Goat. There is a thread on it in Pedestrian machines. As you can see I'd been having a bit of a play with it. Today I dug it out of it's hiding place had more of a play with it. First I amputated it's back legs wheels. I then found these two pieces of scrap, plus the jaw plates removed from my Saxon trailer. They became this towing attachment for the front of the Billy Goat. Next job was a rear towing attachment. A length of 1"x1". Another of 1"x2". A couple of U bolts. Tow ball plus a spare spacer and I had this. At end of play this is how things look. There's still more to do and one or two alterations but so far so good. All made from scrap lying around, so zero cost. No Billy Goats were harmed and if needs be can be put back as was. To be continued.........

I built this out of what I had lying around, in anticipation of snow last winter. I'm still waiting. First a frame was made using some 1-5/8 bore pipe and box section. Then the front end put together The blade was made at the local smithy. No rollers big enough, so it was curved in stages on a folder. I made my own tach-o-matic for the rear. Then this dodgy character nicked it.

All the Best, Paul. Have a good day.

With the new shed now in place and being fitted out, work on Mustang 3 is on hold for now However the first shed is now the "Yellow and White" shed, so all things Cub Cadet and Mowett Mustang will live there Mustangs 1 and 2 now up on the raised platform...

I wouldn't worry about that.

Happy birthday Paul 🎁🎉

Happy birthday Paul, hope you had a good day.

Happy birthday Best wishes Joseph

Happy birthday Paul, I hope you had a great day. It was good to see you and Wendy today Iain

Nearly there. Before you reassemble check with a straight edge just to make sure it is nice and flat.

Happy Birthday Paul.

Happy Birthday Paul. Have a good one!

Happy Birthday Paul, have a good un

Happy birthday Paul

Many happy returns Paul see you at Newark

To be honest, I would say you are there with it. Hopefully the new gasket rolled lip will sit in the same depression area remaining. You have enough flat area for a gas tight joint now. The original pic of the head showing the blown gas leak areas, which I later showed and denoted (but forgot to explain) with green arrows are now fine. There is just the chamber carbon deposit areas to finish back to bright and you're done with the C/head. Nearly time to arm yourself with a torque wrench and bolt it down to the sequence in the manual.

Probably is !!

Great find Paul. Probably better if I do not show this to Joseph as one of these is on his wish list Iain

Starting to look the part now, just got to do a little more tweaking on the lift mechanism and then paint it.

I know this subject is posted elsewhere, but as I decided to make a bigger one, I thought I'd do an update. Actually, certain persons told me too. So first a plastic drum was procured from up at a mates farm. Next, the top was cut off. I had these hooks that are for hanging florescent lights from. After cleaning the paint off the hook and the back, they were fitted to the drum. Two eye bolts were also fitted opposite to each other. These for wire or some sort of support to hang the work piece from. Copper wire was secured behind the hooks and out through a hole drilled in the side. Also a wire and crocodile clip secured to one of the eye bolts. The later will attach to the work piece. Sacrificial anodes were made using some box section with copper wire attached, so they could be hung from the hooks. I had an 18v battery charger for a cordless drill lying about, so this has been modified to provide the electric current. The blue wire, negative, is attached to the copper wire running round the inside of the tank. The brown wire, positive, is attached to the eye bolt with the wire and clip on. All that's left now is to fill it with water and add washing soda and it should work. The top will be fitted upside down to act as a cover. Why upside down? The barrel after being cut and having bits bolted to the sides, is distorted. Upside down it fits grand as owt.

This was one of those things, i saw a picture on the internet and had to have a go. The first picture was my first mod, front wheels the same size as the back ones. The rest are the finished Jeep. If you want to see more info on this I did a blog on instructables http://www.instructables.com/id/Gas-petrol-powered-jeep-from-ride-on-mower/ If the link isn't allowed/doesn't work just search my screen name in google images.