Wristpin

Never heard of them but Google has dozens of images relating to Power King EconomyTractors, so it looks as though there are a good few around.

At the risk of stating the bloomin obvious getting the pulleys in the wrong orientation will effect the blade tip speed - a safely consideration. Lets just say that the larger pulley is the same diameter as the crank drive pulley , we then have a deck input speed of engine rpm , say 2800 to 3000rpm . Reverseing the deck pulley putting the smaller one on top and the input speed goes up plus the larger pulley is now driving the blade spindles at an even higher rpm - excessive blade tip speed ?? In addition the idler pulley bearings and blade spindle bearings may all be subjected to higher rpm than intended.

Thanks for the suggestion but the MV100 is a different animal altogether. Two stroke not four.

I'm looking for a standard size piston that's not been seized. Original part number 16095004

Bartrams in Ipswich may be a good place to start. Long time Ransomes Dealer and just down the road from Ransomes themselves.

With most saws the eaiest way of locking the engine (bar having the correct dummy spark plug with a nylon buffer) is to remove the plug and poke two or the inches of heavy duty starter cord down into the cylinder and then rotate the engine in the appropriate direction to compress the cord and lock the crank. No danger of slipping and consequent damage, or have I missed something unique to this situation?

The Dellorto carb shouldn't be too much of an issue. The attached may help with linkages etc. https://www.dropbox.com/s/e0fwa1pd83mcn31/Aspera horizontal crank governors0001.pdf?dl=0

That recoil is similar to the ones used on some iron block Tecumsehs and I believe was bought in from Fairbanks Morse. A few years ago I needed a recoil spring for a 10 hip Tecumseh and bought it from the States; only to find that it was off the shelf in the UK as a Kohler part.

Toro now owns Hayter so are "rationalising" the parts bin.

Interesting that you dealt with Rupert Ledger. They went into voluntary liquidation in 1976 . They were better known as manufacturers of ignition testing equipment and I have one of their portable test units. I also have a very useful gadget, the Dy-tone, that they made for ascertaining the condition and the opening / closing point of contact breaker points in flywheel magnetos without the need to dismantle - one wire to the HT lead and one to earth giving an audible signal that changes when the points open or close. A sharp change of note equals clean points and a slurred one, dirty points. Invaluable for setting the timing on early Villiers etc as being audible , hands and eyes are free to align timing marks etc. The company morphed into Ledger Selby and Co. Ltd and also traded as Uni-Pak Maintenance Systems. No mention of drills in any of the literature that I have.

Nice bit of kit. I think that Avos were the gold standard of their day and there are still some applications where I prefer analogue to digital, but then I'm........... !

The original coil armature on your engine would be a 298316 , to which you can fit a 394970 Magnetron module to eliminate the points and condenser but it may be less hassle to find a newer 397358 coil, that already incorporates a Magnetron trigger module, from a scrap engine. When shopping for a new / used coil take yours and make sure that the spacing of the fixing holes exactly matches as there are some minor but important differences in the spacing on otherwise similar-looking coils. Any coil from a 13 series engine should fit.

Forgive me for gatecrashing this thread but here are a couple of images of the bench drill that my father bought for me in the early 1950s. It has MRL and the numeral 5 cast into the flywheel and MRL into the underside of the base but I can find no information about the manufacturer.

Taking the trenching suggestion a step further , could it have been for tree planting on rough hilly terrain ? The Forestry Commision used much larger versions when establishing acres of coniferous woodland.

All looking good. What’s the secret of achieving that standard of finish during the winter weather?

From what you are now saying it sounds as though you are looking at the plastic casing around the original external dog clutch assembly and if the “ no drive “ was sudden it is likely that the failure is either of the roll pin holding the drive half of the dog clutch to the APTO shaft , or the roll pin locking the bronze gear within the sump to the Auxilliary PTO shaft has sheared. A quick test is to remove any covers so that you can observe the shaft where it exits the engine, engage the dog clutc and try to push the mower forward . If the internal pin has failed the pto shaft will rotate freely allowing the machine to move. If not it will lock. Replacing the internal pin may be done through the small removable plate in the engine sump but only if you can account for all the broken bits of pin, otherwise it’s a sump off job. As an aside to your issue , neither of the halves of the dog clutch are still available unless you can locate any New Old Stock. I’ve seen various attempts to “ dress” rounded off dogs to achieve more positive engagement - not many successful, so it’s important to preserve what you have by correct adjustment. A factor that defeats this is wear within the sump allowing excessive APTO shaft end float making correct adjustment impossible. Briggs answer to this was a new sump and bronze gear but we developed a solution using a 50p thrust washer from the Qualcast parts bin. A proper investigation and , perhaps, an image or two will save a lot of guess work.

Their rarity depended upon how close to a USAF base you were! We came across a few that had migrated from East Anglia having been originally sold through their PX stores on the larger bases. Plus one private import by a Virgin Atlantic 747 captain!

Does the cable go to a little lever on a shaft out of the left of the BS engine block? If so, it has an internal Power Trac wrap spring clutch - best described as a good idea at the time. Lots was written about them at the time but the outcome was the same! A lot of machines were converted to the previous dog clutch system and quite a few were just dumped. If you are very lucky the problem could just be cable adjustment - make sure that the lever is being fully moved from stop to stop, but if it's not, the non availability of parts may scupper the job. I believe that the wrap springs are still available - I might even have one. There was a repair kit 394871 but fairly sure it is NLA.

An interesting looking machine. The transmission is unusual, does it combine a clutch and gearbox? Also, does it have a differential or is it a fixed drive to both rear wheels? I didn't realise that what I thought was a forum post had gone as a private message but here is the interesting reply " Very sharp eyes there Wristpin. That gearbox is a Snow Nabstedt 5108L http://snpt.biz/model-5108c/ . It operates without any clutch and can be engaged in forward or reverse at full throttle. And can be thrown from F to R under full throttle. The company is still in business today. This gearbox was used on only two Tiger tractors, the 883 (which I have) and the 552. The 552 was exactly the same at the 883 except it had a 5hp engine and 12" rear wheels where the 883 had a 9hp engine and 16" rear wheels. Tiger called these "automatics". They use 30 weight motor oil for transmission fluid. All other Tigers had regular gear boxes with clutches. The tractor is very 'beastly'. It's well made and heavy. But it does have some draw backs, like NO BRAKES! None at all. A parking brake was an option but it was for holding on a hill, not for stopping. The rear drive is the weakest part of the tractor. It's a strange ratcher lock drive and when in good condition it works great. The only issue is that when both rear hubs lock up you cannot steer the tractor. Bth rear wheels drive in forward but only the right wheel drives in reverse. The tractor has a ton of umph, cam pull like a locomotive. It's slow and deliberate. But when the rear drive components wearout it's a royal pain. Parts have to be machined to be replaced. " 4 hours ago 0 Report

The freewheels are screwed to the welded boss on the shaft. From here on I'm relying on memory! Please accept that it's been six years since I retired and probably a few more than that since I was "hands-on". The freewheels are identical part numbers, not handed so they are fitted in opposite orientation so that the anti-clockwise rotation of the main shaft (viewed from the drive end tightens the assembly to the threaded boss that is part of the shaft and in turn engages the ratchets in that assembly to drive the LH roller. From that, it follows that the centre boss of the ratchet unscrews clockwise from the boss. If they are not too rusty and you look carefully at the ratchet units you will see that they have a little arrow inscribed on them indicating the direction of drive. If I remember correctly they themselves unscrew to come apart to reveal the ratchet pawls and springs. They have two recesses on one face to accept a pin wrench or to be carefully tapped round with a punch. Viewed from the non-drive end of the centre shaft the RH ratchet will unscrew anti-clockwise - I think. In the day, Hayter used to supply a complete shaft and ratchet assembly which was the cost-effective way of dealing with seized ratchets etc in a busy workshop.I can find the bulletin for the Harrier 48 but not the 56 but the idea is the same. https://www.dropbox.com/s/g345uah3qyls2og/Hayter Harrier 48 and 56 roller bulletins0001.pdf?dl=0 added later - the plastic cover, as per "Philliss's" post https://www.dropbox.com/s/y37o3y9zirvr2kl/Hayter Harrier 48 and 56 roller ratchet shroud0001.pdf?dl=0 Also, I believe that the nylon spacers were a "running modification" so may not have been present on earlier machines but can be added during repair.

Is it a conventional two-stroke or one of the newer four strokes running on petrol/oil mixture.? ( In Stihl language - FourMix) Black smoke usually signifies over fuelling - excessively rich mixture. If it only smokes on starting and then clears I wouldn’t worry about it.

Its been a while but I remember it just being a woodruff key - no roll or spirol pin. Had them so tight that the sprocket bends and enough heat melts the (relatively cheap) plastic bearing carrier behind it. Last resort is to cut the sprocket off. Thought that I had a service bulletin but cant lay hands on it at present. This isn't the one that I wanted but may help. 55 is the woodruff key

That will weld OK but don't attempt it with the tyre still on the rim - even deflated, nasty things can happen. Also, it may be wise to add some reinforcement inside the rim and inspect the insides of the other welds for cracking. http://www.worktruckonline.com/article/story/2010/01/caution-welding-wheels-is-dangerous.aspx

Nice provenance provided by the supplying dealer's sticker.