Anglo Traction

Post your Engine Model, Spec and Serial numbers and maybe we can point you to where in the U.S. you can obtain what you need. The 2 pics don't give much away, but I suspect your Carb may be the Medium 2 piece Flo-jet version, which has the short stubby High Speed Needle Valve?. Sounds like you need a full Carb overhaul Kit to be sure all will be good. They are pretty cheap (for you in U.S), but you need the correct Kit. Also if your model has a Fuel Pump (unlikely), it will need a different Float Valve Seat. EDIT- Use this part number/link for the Filter Element- -LINK- Regards.

I reckon there is a lack of clarity between 'Ritzed' and Blitzed . Does the 5 Star refer to the number of Heavenly Bodies you can see through the Roof at night ?

Great to see it close up the other day Ian. Your welds are looking real good too. Your gonna need a set of Oil Skins n Wellies to ride that in the wet/mud

You're right there Chris, always liked to have stuff arrive. Just good, clean working order that won't rot through in a few seasons Ian. Brush painting it, so no superior finish . Finished the Wheel Bolts. Had to Screw cut the start of the 3/8" UNC threads, then use a Die as it was quite hard for me with the Die stock straight off by hand- With the Wheel Bolts done, The Deck Undercarriage is finished ready to fit. Also the Deck Belt Tensioner- Deck Shell clean up has been interrupted 'cause the 10 yr old Angle Grinder started haemorrhaging grease. It had been stored a while, and when I went to use it for this job, Oil had seeped out of the head into the Storage case. So I presumed it was the old grease breaking down and separating. Got worse, so I dived into it today for an inspection and clean up- Both the Race Bearings are good, but not sure about the Driven Shaft (small end) Bearing. Anyway I cleaned up the Commutator and fitted new Brushes. Repacked the Gear Head with Graphite Auto CV Joint Grease and sealed the joint to contain the Grease, except for a small section at the front, so if it seeps out there, I'll know if there is a problem again. Runs perfect and sounds like a jet engine on wind down, so hopefully get some more use out of it . Had to do this job as the steel has arrived and I have to cut it up for the Baffles......That's the Weekend arranged then !.

You're right , it isn't. Have you also noticed the rear tyres?...apart from being different, the R/H side is on the wrong way round.

Belated Birthday Wishes Alain. Clearly you're making the most of it and suspect your acquisitions will keep you busy/occupied for a few weeks. Enjoy the rest of the day

Very Handy peice of gear Mark...... Have you established as 'SWL' limit for it?.

Nice Gauges Mark. I seem to remember you doing the Tachos on RS Forum. I was thinking about that Custom Neon Tractor on that Gut Bug Yoghurt advert when you mentioned Pimped WH! .

Not that Brand Alain, but here there are brand like Kurust and Trustan 23 which do the same. I also find them very handy, but they can't cope with thick rust and the job has to be well dry before priming/painting.

Handy machine. I like the 'Sod Buster' label in 1st Gear position . I had duel Belts on a '71' JD 624E Tiller, operated by a lever and pulley driven off the Camshaft for reverse. That machine look's way tidy. I get ones that look like this to sort out-

Presumably the magnets are still good and can attract a large flat blade Screwdriver from a distance of 3/4" (a test noted in the Techy Workshop Manual). What you have ordered there should make it fire up.

I'm sure it's been done, but would check if you need to tilt the machine back more with a Wheeled Seat than when walking behind it. I know Kohlers have a 30 degree safe tilt limit for short duration to prevent starving the Oil Dipper of adequate Splash Lubrication, but I don't know about the Villiers MK10,12 or 15 on yours...I know they don't hold as much Oil. Otherwise go for it.

Great job on the Deck fabrication . Slow, but steady progress on the Deck. New bits have been arriving and I decided to make new Baffles as these are too tatty- Both now gone and ready to be Sandblasted 'n' Weldthru Primered in those areas, rest will be Etch Primed- New Baffles will be sealed to deck shell and then squirted with Waxoyl via a small access plug. Got the Anti Scalp Roller Pin out, looked pretty sad. Replacement Roller is Albino!, but will do the job and less expensive than the Black plastic Toro replacement. Also been machining up Bolts for the new Deck Wheels, as the old bolts are bigger?- And the 'Pukka' New Blades have arrived- Got them delivered for less than they appear to retail for in U.S.. Back to more fettling........

Maybe an excuse to build another

Yep!,there should be a 1 at the start, otherwise correct. Your engine is a replacement and the date is 1984. March 1st . Not a great many changes from the original engine spec. The Engine Manuals for it are (hopefully) available from this LINK . Machine look's in very good condition.

Yep!. As the engine is not original to WH Spec, you will probably find the Dip Stick attached to the end of a Blanking Plug (square Head or Hex Socket) located beside the Cylinder fins on top of the Crankcase, or at the base (front) of the Oil Pan (if it is, it will be a short stubby one). The original was set in a long tube at the back next to the Starter motor. Edit:- When you find it, you will probably need to how to measure correctly. Rest the screw-in plug on the edge of the Fill hole to read the level.

Hello Rod, Welcome. Firstly, in my opinion you posted this subject in the correct Forum (other Garden Machines), as the Osprey is self-powered and not manually pushed or pulled. Sounds like the HT coil could be breaking down when it warms up. Chassis number reveals it is from around mid/late 70s. Suggest you have a look at a Thread I posted in this section a while back covering the same model. You will find it near the bottom of the page when you first view the 'Other Garden Machines' Section. A couple of good links to manuals by Wristpin in post nbr 13. If you have the original Engine still fitted, it should have numbers stamped on it like- 170702-5638-01 7******** (last block is the serial number incls year/date of manufacture). Illustrated Parts Manual for the engine are still available from Briggs and Stratton and parts are still freely available. Any help needed, just ask and pictures are always helpful if you can post 'em up.

No problem with the info. There are lots of Members in the Home Counties. It is a 1973 10hp 8 speed as they are known in the U.S. (Also No Name Tractors). Model number will be 1-0360 (Belgium continued to call them Raiders). Here's the Link to Toro Parts Diagram for it -LINK- The serial number also points to 1973-ish and your Tractor was assembled at the European WH works in Belgium with parts shipped from the U.S. Your seat and Steering Wheel were made in Britain and also fitted at the Belgium factory. Around that time, they used 2 types of PTO Clutch Linkage and either 1 or 2 Pedals, as surplus parts were still being shipped from the U.S that were no longer fitted to U.S Models. Flat top Gear Knobs look post 1974. Earlier ones were Spherical. There wasn't an 'H' Gear Lever Plate fitted on many 'C' Series before late '73' in Europe. Look's in fairly good condition. Way better than I get .

Hello John, Welcome. Wheel Horse started using C-101 on their 10hp Model from 1978 with a Model Number of 81-10k801. So depending on which year yours is, will depend on what Manuals you will need. Once you know your model number (on a small black Plate under left side of dash usually) and then the year, you can search for them on the WH sister site here- -Redsquare- Many of us here are also members on that Forum. As you have a different sized Engine fitted, you will need to note the Model, Spec and Serial number (if it is a Kohler) and search this site link- -Kohler- Any problems, come back with the details required above and we'll see if we can fit you up with what you need. If you have any pics you can post, we like pIcs. Regards

As Norm says, handy piece of gear. Look's like a Techy H60 and may have been Electric start or they used a surplus Shroud for a Pull Start. The H60 I did had to have new points/Condenser and Air Gap reset after a clean before I could get a spark. It was laid up for over 25 years. Ignition Timing is a challenge, being 0.080" BTC, but then you probably know that already. Look's in good general condition though for the price

Nice old Machine, always fancied getting hold of one. As for the smoke, it maybe just that the Breather needs a good clean. You may already be aware, but many engine types use a Reed Valve and filter trap system inside the Breather unit and run with a partial vacuum in the Crankcase. It may be just dirty, or it could be assembled/fitted incorrectly?. I would check all these first (cheapest) Worse case is as you may suspect. Rings, Bore or Valve Guides are getting tired. Not serious yet if only a haze. I'd change the Oil regularly after getting the sludge out of the Sump/Oil Pan and use a bit of the old Redex in the fuel and see if it improves (I've still got about 3/4ltr if you need some.....you're not far away . If it had been standing for a long time before you acquired it, the rings may still be sticking?.

What was/is the reason to break up the Floor Mark?. The Old Saxon Trailers are good quality. I need to rescue one soon and find some space for it. Same good condition as yours.

Hello Mike, Welcome. I don't know the age of your Osprey, but here is a link to the B &S Manual site and a User Manual that covers 170702 versions (1980) and others- Briggs .

Quite a few versions around Chris. Mine is about 4 years old now. Still available and now with 15metres of cable. Usual disclaimer, but here is a -LINK- to an example. I'm sure you're familiar with the Kohlers in general. Great to work on and parts available. I had no option for the level of work I had to do on this one, as I was sold a Dud- . It was well worth the time and money and the re-bore, re-grind was only £67 at the time and it was a quality job/service. Finished the jobs on this engine now. Drain/Priming additions saved a lot of time cranking etc and fired up in a few seconds of cranking Planning a few (bolt-on) mods to the Clutch system on both Tractors next-

Very tidy job on the Muffler. Of course you do realise that putting a new Chrome Shield on it will most likely force you to consider refurbishing the Whole Tractor !