Anglo Traction

Very nice wheels. Lots of potential there. I also thought they may have been off of a Scooter of some kind. Thought they may have come from a Maicoletta, as my friend had one about 45 years ago. I think the wheels were bigger though?.

Happy Birthday Norm. Hope the Sun shines for you today.Enjoy !.

Here is the Illustrated Parts List for your Engine- Briggs 82902.pdf You can now identify the parts you need and search using the part numbers. Edit- date for your engine is 2nd Mar 1965 Regards

Hi, Can you check that number again and post the full Model, Spec and Serial numbers. I can't find a record of it. The 6 = cubic capacity in Cu Inches. Your 5 = a Design number. Your 9 is the Carb Type (9 is a Vertical Pulsa Jet). 0 = Plain Bearings. 2 = Rewind Starter. It is possible the number should read 60502. The important number in your case is the 5, as it is a different Carb (Vertical Vacu Jet). If you can post a good clear Picture of the Carb here as well, we can establish the correct original Carb you have and that is not a replacement. Will then be able to provide a correct part number for the part(s) you need.

Hi Rex, Excellent work there with the repairs and progress. Now that we can see it, I'm going to stick my neck out here and say that the Tank Support Plate has had the end chopped off . It should extend past the side plates by 3-4 inches. I suspect it has been trimmed to accommodate an engine that had a Fuel Tank bolted to the engine sometime in the past. Also the elongated holes in the Frame are a giveaway. It needs either extending again and modifying before you can fit a Tank on it, or look for one from a 70-75 Model (will fit straight on and have the correctly located holes etc).

Looking forward to more pics when you can Gareth. Outstanding job on saving that one....... Have you 'Fired' it up yet?.

Just started with the same Pump and Fuel system changes on the '74' C-120. It's also nearly up to 5 hours running since I fully rebuilt the Re-bored engine with the re-ground Crank. Wanted to check for the amount of cast iron dust in the sump while I drained the oil, so I 'Jacked up' the front end and got most of the oil out. I then put a blast of air down through the Pump aperture to get most of the residue to the back of the Sump/Pan, followed by a small amount of clean oil and left to drain again. Just out of curiosity, I thought I'd have a look inside to check how clean it was with my handy 'Scope on a Rope'- All looked fine and took a screen shot of the Con Rod end, Cap/bolt and the Oil Way for the Crank journal . Minimum focusing distance is about 8 cm- Not the best image copy, but a handy piece of cheap gear. Just the Drain Tap to fit and she's good to go for hard run.

Sounds like the Bendix Gear is not sliding out against the spring tension to engage . The splines probably need a clean and a small amount of Teflon Dry Lube or similar.

Nice project you have acquired there!. Seen these before somewhere. I believe your model is a YR60?. Is the Wisconsin 2 cylinder and hydrostatic drive?. Would like to get my hands on a 'Wiso' one day.

Will be there Saturday first thing. Weather forecast is good so far :- 23 deg C, Mainly Sunny, Winds light from the South. Possible rain late evening/over night. Clearing by Sunday AM. Anything is better than the 'Soggy September' last year and the subsequent cancellation of it.

Just after I posted this, my Letterbox rattled and my 1&1/8"AF 'King Dick' Ex Army Spanner dropped into my 'Catch Basket'. Blades n Spindles here we go!.

I don't sell very much, but when I do, I always add as much info as possible (including Shipping weight). This is because like M.M.M Chris says, I also know people out there require items to use or adapt for other purposes. I do just that myself. I experienced my first non arrival of an item this earlier week, but received a full refund. I promptly searched, found and ordered a replacement, cost me more and I asked the buyer if he would send it 'Signed for' 2nd Class, charging me the extra cost to be more sure of delivery. He would only send it 2nd class !, so I'm hoping it will turn up, as I need to progress with the Mower Deck. A lot of items I purchase from U.S. , I will always look for sellers offering the Global Shipping Programme. It has many benefits. I often find parts listed with an erroneous description or info, which, if you know what you're looking for, will likely be a bargain purchase, as many people ignore/don't notice it.

Anybody visiting or exhibiting this year?........... Hoping to get down for one of the days.

If Neil hasn't got one, I have a clean '74' Black Tank I keep as a spare (not under my bed), but am prepared to part with it for a good cause. It needs a new rubber Bush and specific Fuel Tap. I also have the fixing wire and can make you up a retaining spring. You will most likely have to make the centre hole in the Tank Plate base a little bigger and drill an extra 1/8" diameter hole, otherwise it will fit straight on. To give you an idea, I can obtain the new Fuel Tap and Bush from the U.S for about £22 total.

Sorry for the delay. When you close in view on a place on Google Earth, sometimes there are earlier images available of a specific area. In this case if you close in on Hawkhurst and Gill's Green, you will see a small clock appear in the bottom left corner (outlined in red by me) Click on that and it will produce a Slide Bar at the top of your image and this will give you periods in time of any images Google hold. Many of the images date from 1940 for obvious reasons. Here is an example of what to look for-

Shame it had to go. Like the old photo. All good stuff. As it happens, you can see the old Wood Yard and Railway layout if you home in on Gills Green with Google Earth and change the image to 1960. Look's like the Garden Centre was like an Orchard then.

No problem. An Illustrated Parts List for the early mid 60s Models are pretty elusive. I only found a few Parts lists without the views. Main U.S Model was the 606 (1966), which was fitted with an HH60 Techy Engine (6hp). The 8** series Models had the Kohler K181 (8hp) versions. I suspect that as usual, the Annual Model changes in the U.S left a lot of unsold Units and surplus Engines, so they put the remainder of their K161T engines(7hp) into the 606 Frames called them 706 and shipped them abroad. The last U.S. Model to have the K161T fitted was in 1964 on the 704. That 706 is in good condition, albeit repainted and not original, it deserves a proper Fuel Cap. If it was mine, I'd pay the money for one to have the Tractor complete again (and running).............................Would be good to know what he decides and when it gets sold. Regards.

That is a big challenge!. 706 model doesn't show up anywhere, but I looked up 877 (similar), the part number was 5186 superseded by 55-4700. Both discontinued. If a used one can be found, it would be like finding a Pearl in a Restaurant Oyster !. The remaining option would be to look for one that fits a classic Harley Davidson, as it was a Generic manufactured part used on many other applications. Guys in the U.S have used this route to obtain a Cap for similar models 64-67 ish. If it's allowed?, an example Cap that could possibly fit is in this -Link-, but dimensions would need to be checked first with the seller.........assuming he would be prepared to pay the price!. Best I can offer. Shame the Blue Traction Engine is 'Out of Shot'.

Assembled the refurbished Mule Drive unit today. Bit of a state initially, but cleaned up ok with Blasting and Etch Primer. Added brass tube spacer to keep the Tension Bars correctly spaced- Fitted good quality bearings- Another job done. Ready to fit-

Afraid I know nothing about Gurtner Carbs or Mag engines. However, I do seem to be able to dig deep into the Interweb to find info. If it helps-.....This -LINK- will take you to another Forum and the Guy who goes by the Username of Trusty220 on it seems to be about the most knowledgeable person around on your Engine type. The link goes to a Thread that discusses the same issue you have. Regards

Thanks, Deck look's excellent !. I use the same methods to locate parts and search all the other WH Model IPLs to crosscheck for parts as when I did the 2 Tractors. There is always someone selling a part that they don't know fully what it is and will fit. Many generic parts/items like Hi Pro Keys for example are traceable using the makers Part # and the cross over numbers to other Products like MTD/Ariens that list the same parts with their own numbers. New Blades are the main purchase (sorted). I've stripped this Deck down to the bare shell now and (Stormin/Norm) I'm happy with all the Bearings/Spindles & Housings. Thought I may have to replace one Pulley, but changed my mind when I found out how much a new one is!. I'm making things like 'Special Washers' that are needed Had to get a 1 1/8"AF thin spanner (used/cheap) and a Socket for when I pull the old Blades. Spindles for this are rare now. Found one NOS up for nearly £100 + shipping!. Fortunately these feel pretty good so far. I will replace one worn Hi Pro Key which will remove the small amount of Torque Slack on one of them. Shell is really solid and had been coated with an 'Underseal' of some kind, possibly soon after initial purchase c 1980. Bolts were refitted the wrong way at some point though, hence having some difficulty with freeing them off. ....Pulled about 2 kgs of stones etc from inside the 2 Baffle Boxes and have found 2 small areas to weld up in them. The Anti Scalp Roller (original) is so worn because the Spindle Rod end had been swaged and welded to the Brackets !!... couldn't get it off to replace?...... I have a plan for an alternative roller. Will use Stainless for fixings on Deck reassembly. Good to know 'Make do and Mend' is still comprehensively practiced . Any Pics of your Shaft Drive Deck build?. Seems I have the advantage and luck of time and a reasonable Deck. I will have some parts to fabricate and repair on the Carrier/Lift Frame, mostly turning,drilling and metal 'build-up' welding work. Meanwhile, it's scraping and cleaning time. Regards.

Ah!....I now know where to go for advice from an expert then . Already found an 'iffy' Spindle/Pulley/Hi-Pro key fit on one Spindle Castel (possible cause being Pulley Nut loose ). Many Nut & Bolt Bodges too. All but 2 of them undid ok. Problem is having to buy costly parts in from U.S as they're unobtainable over here. Overall so far, not as bad as I had expected.

If the Tank look's like this Rex, it may be difficult to find one- It may be possible to use one from the slightly later models of 72-ish which are similar, except for the Strap and possibly the Fuel Tap. That style should be much more common.

This has been propped up against the wall in my garage since 2010 and came with the Raider/C-120. Need to get this up and running, so I dragged it out for a quick check/inspection- Not a lot of meat left on that anti scalp Roller!. All solid Shell with no weld repairs and all free moving parts. Bearings are smooth tight and have been well greased. Needs new Blades, Roller and a few bolts. Carrier Frame needs some work, so will take time out from the Traction Engine and take advantage of good late summer weather. May have to replace the Deck Wheels as well, several chunks of rubber missing!. Nearly finished the Mule Drive.

Yep AF imperial spanner sizes and UNC UNF Thread forms