Anglo Traction

No problem. I've used Standard Araldite in the past for mine (plus rivets), but I've read that others have also used Silicone Adhesive or Contact Adhesive. Metal face needs to be super clean and grease free. Air Filter - original part number for K301 spec 47421d was A-235100. Now 235116-S1. Robbed this next info from an Ad ............... Replaces OEM: CASE: C28883 CASE: D66337 CLARK EQUIPMENT: 6518241 Cub Cadet: 385168-R2, Cub Cadet: IH-385168-R2, Cub Cadet: IH-385168-R3 GRAVELY: 010900, GRAVELY: 043954 GRAVELY: 20057700 JOHN DEERE: AM31400 LESCO: 050036 NEW HOLLAND: 251399, NEW HOLLAND: 86546598 TECUMSEH: 32008 TORO: 235116 WISCONSIN: L0194A. ID: 4 5/8 OD: 6 Height: 1 7/8. Armed with all those numbers, a good chance of getting a result local to you. At least you can search online now if no luck. Regards.

As Mark says, plus- There is a compromise with your Tractor. From your pictures, I can tell you that it is mainly a 1972 spec, but with 73> bits fitted (Belgium used up old stock from the U.S. I can only see a single pedal that will operate both the Clutch and the Brake (some serious adjust is required judging by the Peddle angle).....no problem. The main panels are 72, as the gear lever area is open and has the shorter Gear Shift decal plate. From 73> in U.S. They fitted Seat Springs and a slightly longer (1inch) upper Steering Shaft for Knee clearance. Also the PTO Hoop set up you have is '73'>. Dash Panel is difficult to see. A 73 wiring Loom will have a 3 position Ignition Switch, Part number 103990 . A 72 Loom was 4 position and has an Accsr'y position (101917). So best thing to do is pop over to Redsquare via this link, which will take you to the Manuals section and you can download what you need. You need Part/User Manuals for an 1-0311 (72 Raider 12) and Manuals for the 1-0350 (73 12-8psd) - http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/9-1973-1977/ Ignore what is on the riveted plate on your Hood/Bonnet, in fact I would remove it. Only thing to bear in mind is the Manuals/Parts Lists and Specs are all for the U.S. Models/Market. As far as I know, there were never any Manuals produced for Belgium Assembled variants. So you have 2 Forums to play with, if you need any help with it.... and I have both 72 Raider 12 and a 74 12hp.

You're correct with the info . 1-0350 is technically a 12hp 8 speed. Belgium continued sticking surplus Raider Decals on them well into 1973 (the shorter Hood/Bonnet decals were from the late 60's Short frame models). So Decals are iffy for basing an I.D for WH here in Europe. The 8 Speed Transmission in it (if original) is likely to be the 5073 model, which was deemed to have a 10 pinion Limited Slip Diff. from 74 onward, they went to the 8 pinion non LSD. Good choice, User/Parts Manuals for Tractor and Tranny are available.

It's your lucky day. Link below will direct you to both what an old buddy covered in a thread on his restoration of a D-200 Auto (took me a while to find it). He (Andy) refurbished/relined his own. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/32405-d-200-automatic-restoration-project-re-posted/ ................and having obtained my Friction Lining materials from them before, here is a link so you can make your own- http://www.autoandindustrial.co.uk/ Hope this helps. Regards.

Try searching for Band File Sander Alain .

Welcome. These were often used to power things like machinery in Outbuildings and Farms where there wasn't any power supply. The long vertical Exhaust on yours look's like it may have been installed in such a location so as to route the fumes to the outside. What are your plans for it?.

Just read this whole Thread and really impressed with your comprehensive workmanship skills. Your enthusiasm shows through on the care you apply to maintain originality of this machine . Keep the pics coming.

No problem Jonathan, thanks for the reply. Glad to hear you've sorted a Chuck/Backplate. Good history story on the Lathe. Look forward to seeing a pic when you can.

Small amount of progress. More Lathe time recently and still working on the PTO Reduction unit. Finished making the 8 special bolts for the Bearings- Refurbishing of the Big Brass Bearings with new inserts is done and ready to bolt onto the Carrier Plates (working on those)- Checking for imbalance, as it is a heavy piece and I want spot-on. Just the 1/8 BSP Plug to sort and skim the Outer face- Carrier Plates had the first coat of black gloss, but slow to dry and harden. Next job is making/Screw Cutting the 1/2" dia Tie Rod shafts, Spacers and 1/2" BSF Brass Nuts which will hold the engine and PTO in line. I have to draw up the design so I can refer to it for dimensions of parts etc, rather than fabricate and trial fit. More to do on that. Edit on 13th Nov........ Additional Pic during the skimming of the friction face. Very tight fit on the Lathe with only 1/4" travel spare each end -

Awesome Job Nigel . Look's better than new (I imagine). I'm sure Andrew will be real happy with it.

Would that be an Exhaust Pulsing Flame set up Ian?.............. Will be good for killing tall weeds ................... Bit of Overkill just to light up a 'Rolly' Short of iffy circuit or earth/ground connections, the Coils aren't chucking out enough juice?.

The specified Plug for your engine is Champion RH10C or equivalent. Plugs are graded by temperature i.e. Hot, Med or Cold. RH10C is a cold plug which means the Electrode is partially confined in the Threaded plug bore and does not protrude into the Combustion Chamber. A Cold Plug offers a reduction in the risk of Pre Ignition and is suited to non performance engine types. Here's a link to cross reference Plug types and Brands for the equivalents- http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/RH10C Hope this helps. Regards

That's a shame, I'll be down there next week. You'll have the Veteran Cars coming past there around mid morning onwards Chris, enroute to Brighton. 119th anniversary. Will be watching them come past me up here

Excellent quality work there. You're probably aware that Locking Clutch Levers are still available new to fit 7/8" tube. Not cheap though at £30 !.

If you find a picture or the M.E. Magazine, would like to see it Norm. Must have been in a copy before 1984, which was when I started reading the Mag. I'll have a go at it Ian . Have to visit a Wood Turner I know to obtain some hardwood blocks when I'm ready. Got some Lathe time in recently. PTO work is still in progress. Decided to change the Brake/Strap set up design and not employing a Spring Steel Strap like the Brake layout on some Garden Tractors. Instead, I'm opting for a pivoting Clam Shell type or external version of a Brake Shoe set up. Have obtained some 6" (152.7mm) ERW Steel Tube which will cover 2 jobs. Bit of a challenge Cutting slices off with only a manual Hacksaw - First slice in the lathe for finishing the cut end to size- Will have 4 more of these slices to cut and they will used to make Truck Wheels, as original Cast Iron ones are rare and expensive. The steel ring is perfect in dimension to accommodate the 3/16" thick Friction Lining and the PTO diameter- The bearing surfaces of the PTO are having their faces skimmed and have been 'Spot Faced' where the Bolts pass through- Phosphor Bronze Bearing Insert finished to outer diameter being 'Parted Off' from the Cored Billet- Used a 1.1/2" diameter Live Centre in the Tailstock to support the work. 'Parted Off' and a light fit in the Bearing so it can be Soldered (200c) in- Internal bore will be finished last before mounting back onto the Carrier Plate. They were retained by 1/4" Iron Rivets originally and the stress of 'Closing' the rivets originally had cracked the Bearing flange edge at it's thinnest point. I will use specially made Countersunk Screws in reamed holes. Have the other bearing to remove next and repeat .

I believe you have an untouched standard original bore. As Alain suggests, I would also go for a re bore and hone. I would also go to +0.020" depending on any major scoring and to give the person doing the job more 'meat' to remove and finish hone to a good clearance measurement. Kohler appear to restrict limit of re-boring to 0.030" , so It could still have another in the future. The other reason for 0.020" size is that you'll need to purchase a new Piston etc in advance of presenting it for re-boring for the person to accurately finish the bore to the minimum clearance spec of that new piston (they can vary in dimensions slightly) . It is likely the Crank will need a regrind to 0.010" under as well. I had both done and really pleased with the job and the price they charged ( back in 2012) Point to note- There are 2 types of Piston - 'C' and 'D'. You need to ID which type you have and specify it when ordering, or make sure you obtain the equivalent. The reason is that the engine was built with either a statically, or dynamically balanced Piston/Rod and Crank. The new Piston/Rod must weigh virtually the same as the original, more so if you have removed the Balance Gears and not replacing them. (keep and weigh your original Piston/Rod & Pin). This is one of the reasons why engines may vibrate more when the B/Gears are removed. Balance Gears are installed to reduce the vibration caused by Lateral movement of the Crank (front to back direction) as the Crank is balanced for vertical movement. If the new Piston etc is heavier/lighter, the imbalance will also return to the vertical movement. A few grams difference should be bearable. One point on the Cam Shaft is that the Pin/Shaft it rides on goes back in to a specific depth. It may also be worn on the upper face due to downward pressure from the Valve Springs. As most of the pressures are lateral and downwards, you could refit it with the worn face down . Camshaft End float shims are the same size as the Balance gear Shims so keep them for spares if they're good. Valve Guides/Stems have finite wear limits. Check them to avoid problems later. All the Specs, clearances and limits are on page 8 of the K Series Service Manual. I printed that page off for the Re bore Service Staff when I had mine done and I have a copy nailed to my garage wall . Lastly, If your original Carb is a Kohler type, don't junk it, They can be saved with a proper rebuild to the same spec that some here will recall I did on all mine (#26 on K301's)....here's a link to what I did- http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/42411-new-life-for-an-old-26-kohler-carb/ Regards.

Home Brew on the Cards then ?.

Good to see it earning it's keep again Mark. Workshop is progressing well. Look's a cosy place to hide away and make things in

From what you have described to this point, you have covered just about all that should have sorted the issue. I would never criticise anyone for doing things their own way, only offer advice on the assumption a person is not familiar when they ask, but it is hard to know people's situation. The standard to which you have reassembled/described will result in an engine that should run effectively, based on what condition you described it in initially after the Head was off. Short of what You/Nigel suggests regarding the possible shearing of the Flywheel Key, the only things it can be are the Fuel Pump/lack of fuel or the iffy Aftermarket Carb!. As you have another C-161, if that is running fine, then I would carefully remove that Carb off it and bolt it onto this problem engine without affecting any Needle settings. If it runs ok, then your new Carb is suspect!. Keep at it, you'll get there, and be all the wiser for it.

I had wondered just what procedures you have followed/applied to reassemble the engine and having seen that your still having smooth running issues, then there are just 2 basic things that are affecting it. Ignition or Fuel. Ignition- It is always best to set the 'Static Timing' , as just sticking a 0.020" Feeler Gauge into the points is insufficient. Just for curiosity, I did set my points to 20thou and then check where the Spark was occurring and it was virtually on the TDC !!. Just doing the points does not compensate for Breaker Rod, Points or Cam Lobe wear and 20thou is a default setting. These are the marks you should find on the Flywheel periphery - They are viewed through a small hole in the Shroud similar to this example on a K301- A simple process and when I had set my engines to this method, the whole running performance and even the sound of the engines changed for the better. Having changed out virtually all of the Ignition parts, other than timing it properly, the only other main problem area is the Carb. Just to be sure you have the correct Carb fitted to it, could you post the number stamped in on the Flange and if possible look for the number 'cast in' inside the Venturi throat (where the Main High Speed needle passes through the bore). It should be '30'. I say this because someone may have bolted a non original one on it. A worn Throttle Shaft will drastically affect the running of an engine and it/yours may be badly worn. If it rocks back and forwards in it's bore, then it's worn. There are loads of small capillary and galleries inside the Carb and Needles that may not be clear of detritus, even after what id deemed as a good clean, so it is possible there is still a blockage. Depending on what brand and type of Carb you have, depends on what 'Preliminary' needle settings you need for setting it up, prior to final adjustment on a warmed up and high/low speed running engine. So once you've sorted the timing, we can move on to the Carb issues. As for parts, I've used Meetens for over 35 years and so Paul Childs should provide all you need (usual disclaimer). You will need to obtain the part numbers for them, so if you need any help let us know on here by posting your K341's Engine Spec and serial number on here.

Suspect that is the ACR (Auto Compression Release)?, it occurs when the Piston is approx 1/3 up the compression/firing stroke travel. It should lift the Exhaust Valve between 0.030" and 0.042" briefly to reduce the start up load on the Starter Motor and gear teeth. The ACR cuts out when the engine reaches about 600rpm.

I may not be the best to offer advice, as I tend to do things in a meticulous manor when it comes to engines. Depending on whether you wish to have a good condition running K341 or just run it into the ground with the minimal of expense (I suspect the former), the best way to proceed is to pull the Cylinder Head (it may have never been off and totally coked up). You will visibly learn all that may be wrong with it in the 'Top End' and Cylinder and the cost may only be a few hours work and a New Head Gasket. I don't know your Skill/Experience levels, but unless the Valves/Rings/Carb wear condition is ok, you can play around forever trying to get an Engine to run correctly/properly. Certainly sounds like your Rings are worn and/or possibly the Valve Guides, as they should run with a vacuum in the Crankcase or it will blow the Seals. They are good powerful engines, not prolific either. Well worth a proper rebuild.

You're correct of course!. These were used to start the testing of Avon Engines fitted to a Hawker Hunter pre production Prototype F1 at Dunsfold in the year Date Stamped in the base of the Cartridges. I also have 2 shell cases from the testing of the 4 x 30mm Aden Cannon Packs fitted to them. I'll try and find a similar use for them on this project as well. Received a lump of hollow Phosphor Bronze today, 2" dia x 4" so I can machine/refurbish the Big Brass bearings using an insert- Pressed the new bushes into the PTO Lump and made one up to fit where there wasn't one originally to improve the running clearance limits. A quick assembly to test it showed much smoother drive transfer. Still a bit more machining to do on the PTO before it is ready. Having trouble sourcing some materials still, need some Cast Iron to make 2 Flexible Drive Yokes (Engine to PTO). Don't want to import some readymade (nearly) from U.S. if I can help it. Also need 60cm x 30mm x 0.5mm (0.020") Spring Steel for the Brake Band. All of this stuff I had years ago . Sure you all know the 'Moral' to that story !. Anybody done Metal Spinning on a Myford ?. Look's like I'll need to have a go .

Bit late but Happy Birthday Norm !. Wish you many more to enjoy..........Good to hear your having your Cake and eating it .

Thanks Gents, I'll try and maintain the standard you guys set. Here's a few pics, in between some waffle, 'cause I know you like pics. Spent some time over the weekend sorting the PTO 'Lump'. Need to take out the wear and as much slack in the meshing bits as possible. Have given it a clean up and inspection, ordered 1/4" x 2. 1/2" HT BSF bolts (New old stock) and a Plain Oilite bushing. Had a battle to remove the large bushing without a press, so had to improvise with a long bolt, various spacers and elbow grease- ... got there in the end- Fortunately I had a big enough lump to machine the Flanged Bushing from. The other side was a bit easier to remove being a Plain Bronze bushing- First operation was boring and turn the press fit diameter, then reverse to machine the Flange and thrust end to size- Managed to finish the bushing to a good fit in both axial and radial sizes to remove the wear, so should last a while- Also cleaned up the Line Shaft Bearing mounting ready for paint. Had to machine the base flat after a clean up. A 5/8" reamer went through ok with slight resistance, so has little wear (un bushed), but not a well machined bore . May bore it out to 3/4" and press some bushes in. Grease Cups were washed out and had a pickle session in White Wine Vinegar. Polished up nice inside and out- Lastly for now, These 2 identical items are going to be the Fuel Tank(s) in tandem with Balance pipes and Fuel Level Tube- These have a bit of history and are from my 'Late' Father's career and so I'll put them to use. Anyone know or care to offer their idea of what they were used for/on ?. Dimensions are- 72mm dia at the open end, and 167mm in height. Bye for now.